Marc Jacobs –NYFW–Fall 2012
New York Fashion Week seemed to speed past in a blur, but it closed with a bang: Marc Jacobs. Sparking controversy in the use of underage models – not uncommon in the modern world of fashion, but definitely debatable – and from the minute the paper wonderland began turning, mouths were motoring.
Designed and created by Rachel Feinstein in a mere week and a half, the scene was set for a Hansel and Grettel-esque fairytale land, complete with paper trees and entrances zigzagging across the runway. Exaggeration was the key to this show: oversized hats, enlarged buckles, layers and textures all battled for the lead role in the show.
Marc Jacobs Fall colour palette
The palette of the collection was dark and mysterious; a dark pool of water in the midst of a forest, with striking hints of fuchsia and rouge mixed in. Purple, deep green, metallic blue and gun metal are combined with velvet, feathers, tweed and tartan, pulled together with oversized safety pins, and topped with Stephen Jones’ Dr. Seuss-esque hats that towered above the girls as they strode ahead in their buckled “pilgrim” shoes.
With a nod towards Galliano’s love of exaggerated scale and an indication of ethnic inspiration, there is a brilliant distance from the norm. Without the glamorous make-up, draped, sheer fabric or hair that is styled to perfection, the models took on an innocent character. They are wholesome and simple, with braided hair brought into a knot at the back, and deep, dark bags under their eyes. The layers of fabric create a fascinating silhouette, with the odd nipped in waist of a tweed jacket.
Marc Jacobs detailing
Some of the pieces are slightly more accessible and adaptable than others: this textured, tulip shaped leather dress teamed with a crisp smart shirt could easily slip into your work wardrobe, and the furry clutch completes the outfit. A hint of paisley can brighten up the smallest detail in your outfit, especially when introduced to tights or a scarf. For the evening, contrast panels on a leather jacket with a fur trim, add an oversized scarf and don the hat you’ve been hiding away since the 90s. Layers and print are the key to this collection, so remember to contrast each part of your outfit. A Chanel-inspired jacket will indicate the heritage found in Jacob’s use of tweed and print, and a hint of textured leather will bring the look up-to-date. Grab an oversized slouchy clutch and pin a feather to your coat and your outfit is complete!
by Christina Wilmowski
Category: Catwalks, Fashion, Fashion Focus, Footwear, Hairstyles, Makeup, Trend Spotter, Trends







